Deaths in surfing

As much as there are irrational fears related to surfing, there is also the real danger of getting seriously injured or even losing your life when you are out on the surf. There is no sure way to predict when and where these things will happen because the ocean is never the same twice, and there are no two waves alike. 

Surfing in itself is not considered to be an extreme or life-threatening sport, but there are riders that are constantly willing to challenge themselves and the realms of possibility. This increases the risk, and it makes them more susceptible to accidents. 

Like any sport, surfing has had its fair share of tragedies, some of which might have been avoided. However, there are a lot of instances and even filmed videos where riders have all but cheated death. 

The most dangerous and life-threatening surfs are those that feature big wave surfing in bad weather conditions. You can imagine the adrenaline hit when you are riding a liquid building that is collapsing all around you, but in the end, you have to decide if you are willing to take things that far. 

For some riders, it’s a no-brainer; it’s what keeps them alive and breathing. They can’t help themselves, and they can’t be helped, so it’s best to just let them do their thing and hope that they come out intact. 

What Are the Dangers?

The fact of the matter is that there are so many things that a surfer has to navigate through that, at some point, they are bound to make a mistake. 

Enormous swells, reef bottom pulls, and uneven terrains are just part of the dangers that surfers have to face on a day-to-day basis. 

Shark attacks might not be the most imminent of dangers when it comes to surf deaths, but in those conditions and all that chaos, they are very aggravated as well. It would be silly to say that you should look out for sharks when you are big wave surfing, but try to be aware at all times - even when the going gets tough.  

Even if you manage to do everything right and steer clear of rocks, you are still at risk of drowning. 

Yes, sadly, there have been a lot of instances where surfers have been so exhausted from the wringer that, in the end, they haven’t been able to muster up the strength to make it to shore. 

Big Wave Surfing

Surfers that are after big waves know the risks that they are undertaking. They know that they are putting themselves in danger and are willing to face the outcome. 

Hawaii is considered as one of the most popular but also the most dangerous surf spots in the world. That being said, the situation is much more improved than it used to be because now there is a lot of attention directed toward safety and injury prevention. 

Today, big wave surfers are followed by jet-ski riders and are wearing cutting-edge life vests that give them a better chance of making it through. 

Although no one wants to talk about it, and no one wants to hear it, death on the waves is not a peaceful way to go. It usually involves a lot of pain and agony. Over the years, we have lost some true greats.

Names to Remember

If you’ve been in the surfing world for a while, or if you have been hanging out with surfers, you have certainly come across names such as Mark Foo, Todd Chesser, Malik Joyeux, Peter Davi, Sion Milosky, or Kirk Passmore. These big wave surfing greats lost their lives at the reef. 

Most of the stories are similar; great surfer goes out chasing the big waves, and then the unthinkable dawns on them when they least expect it. 

Big Wave Surfers and the Risks They Accept

Being a big wave surfer makes you almost certain to come face to face with death. A lot of well-known riders have managed to all but cheat death and live to tell the tale. Sometimes you have to cheat death to make a name for yourself.

Rip Curl team rider Mick Corbett is all too aware of the dangers and risks that big wave surfing brings, and yet he keeps on building his impressive resume. 

He explains that it’s so very hard for a big wave surfer to back off from the challenge because by the time that they get to the beach on judgment day, they have already given so much of themselves in preparation for the event and have spent so much finances and time, that it seems all but unreasonable to turn back and withdraw.

He knows a thing or two about what it takes for a rider to make a living out of surfing, and he isn’t shy when it comes to putting people and corporations in their right place. 

The Untimely Passing of Mark Foo

Unfortunately, not everyone gets to walk on shore again. Surfing legend Mark Foo stands as one of the best and most accomplished surfers of all time. He began surfing as a child and was a staple at surfing competitions during the end of the 1970s and throughout the 1980s. 

He quickly developed an affinity for the North Shore of Oahu and Northern California. Unfortunately, this would be his undoing. 

In December of 1994, Mark Foo went big wave chasing and was subdued by the unpredictable and always difficult Mavericks. 

The location was Half Moon Bay, and there are photographs that document his death. Word on the beach is that he couldn’t pull himself up to the surface because his leash had gotten stuck on something on the floor of the ocean. 

A Lack of Support

The other side of the predicament is that surfers cannot get the best care and safety protocols in place on the days of the big wave surfs because there isn’t enough interest in the sport from the mainstream media. 

So, how does this connect to the death numbers of surfers? Well, according to Mick, if the general media had more surf features that would bring more investors, that would eventually result in a safer environment. 

In his eyes, the trouble is that most media outlets and big wave surfers seem to be hung up on flashy spots around California and Hawaii. 

These spots are great for surfing, but they have become so popular that no one even bothers with anything else. 

Cheating Death

Mick Corbett can recall plenty of times when life had flashed before his eyes and when he was sure that he wasn’t going to set foot on shore again. As an Australian resident, he does most of his big wave rides on the Australian coast. 

Not even death can pull him away from the thrill of the chase. He compares the waves to beasts, and the feeling he gets when he is on or inside of them is something that he is addicted to and cannot be explained with words. 

The First Recorded Surf Tragedy

One of the first recorded deaths of well-known surfers came when Dickie Cross didn’t manage to come back to shore after a nightmarish swell pulled him and his friend away from land. He was one of the most well-known wave riders during the first half of the twentieth century on the Hawaiian coast. 

He made a name for himself by managing to sail on his hand-made canoe from Waikiki to Molokai. Even though that was the effort that he was known for, Cross was also an accomplished paddleboard racer, sailor, and surfer. 

In late 1943, he and a friend went out to go big wave hunting. They got to Sunset Beach, but the swells were so strong that they couldn't get to their spots and ended up paddling more than two miles in order to reach the shore. 

They didn’t manage to get there. Dickie’s friend was washed ashore, while Dickie Cross’ body was never to be found. 

Fatal Locations

Some of the most notorious places that have taken the lives of professional surfers are Half Moon Bay and Waimea Bay.

Half Moon Bay

Half Moon Bay might be one of the top surfing locations on the planet, but the truth is that there have been some casualties along the way. 

There are registered surfers passing that died surfing the Mavericks. For those that aren’t aware of the Mavericks, you’re sure to see one up close if you take an hour-long trip south from the coast of San Francisco. 

The Mavericks stand as some of the most dangerous waves known to surfers. 

Waimea Bay

Just off the North Shore of Oahu, surfers and ocean enthusiasts can find everything that their hearts might desire. Waimea Bay is the Mecca for surfers, swimmers, fishing expeditions, and extreme sports. 

Even though the spot is as dangerous as they come, it’s also a place for leisure. People that just want to go out and have a good time can do so by taking part in some of the many amenities the spot has to offer. 

Waimea made its mark in the surfing world by delivering waves that topped 30-foot. The thing is, the best waves usually come down during the winter, which makes it exceedingly tricky for surfers to retain their balance.

The Whistles

One of the most dangerous things about surf deaths is that they can come unannounced and when you least expect them to. You would imagine a big wave coming down on an unfortunate soul as they are staring right into it, but that’s rarely the case. Usually, it’s all business as usual and then pow—curtains. 

The Pipeline is one of the most famous and infamous spots in the surfing world. It was a day like any other when Mikey Redd O’Shaughnessy lost his balance and hit the reef hard. He lost consciousness from the impact and was held to the floor of the ocean by another two incoming waves. 

That’s when everyone started to suspect the worst. In the surfing community, when someone is gravely injured or needs assistance fast, you start hearing whistles. It’s a sure sign that you have to immediately drop whatever you are doing and do your best to help out in any way that you can. 

In an instant, half a dozen riders gave chase and dived in for Redd. They managed to navigate quickly and pulled him out in their hands. Death was looming large. They placed him on a jet ski and set him for shore. Paramedics were already waiting on sight to do their best to bring Redd back to earth. They began the standard CPR procedure, and to great relief and joy, Redd responded. 

Preventing Surf Deaths and What We Can Do

Time

Developing a system around any new facet of surfing takes a long time. It takes time to learn how to navigate and how to get better at preventing the things that might end up taking lives. 

That being said, the ocean is always unpredictable, and the progression has been gradual. Luckily, there is now a culture of helping out and lending a hand in the direst of circumstances. 

It’s just common sense; the longer you practice and perform something, the better you will understand it. Big wave surfing is at a point when it’s safer than ever, and that’s why the death numbers have been steadily going down as the years have gone by. 

Communication

Big wave surfing has been treated with more and more care as the years have gone by. 

Although the numbers aren’t as high as they used to be, there is still room for concern, and it is mostly geographically driven. 

However, while some spots are riskier than others, an important thing that seems to have come to the forefront in the past five years is the education on big wave surfing and navigation in general. 

Surfers are having safety meetings on the regular. During these get-togethers, there is a revolving set of topics that everyone can learn from. 

There is a trend of communicating. Everyone is in sync, so rescues have become more expeditive and successful than ever. 

The pre-planning of big events is also a lot more detailed and organized. The crews are bigger, better, and more experienced. But does this go across the board? Well, not really. There’s always a bout of irresponsibility; it probably comes with the territory of the surfer’s lifestyle. Nevertheless, we all ought to do what we can to improve surfing safety across the board.

Awareness

Unfortunately, one of the leading causes of death among surfers is the lack of awareness. Riders just don’t know about all of the dangers that are looming over them. A lot of deaths could have been prevented simply by having an infrastructure that would have been able to inform the surfers of security and safety protocols. 

While this has been a point of emphasis, and lately, there has been a lot of improvement on this front, there is still a lot of room to grow. 

It took surfer Sion Milosky’s death, who died surfing Mavericks, for some of his friends to step up and take initiative. They were all too aware that the first responders, as great as they are on land, could not help drowning riders in the ocean, so they began programs for surf responders.

We’ve all heard him saying: when in doubt, don’t paddle out. But, unfortunately, it’s not always as cut and dry. Sometimes the weather conditions don’t seem as dire when a surfer is setting up their paddle and moving inside the ocean. 

The weather can change in an instant and leave a lot of folks in danger. This is why it’s crucial for surfers to have the skills required to help beach others in deadly situations. 

Another big part of the awareness campaigns focuses on family. Surfers, especially intermediate ones, tend to be a bit overconfident in their abilities. 

This is why there are multiple agencies that advocate that surfers should always think of their families and loved ones before they set out. A regular day on the reef can turn into a family tragedy in an instant. Risk management might be a new thing in the surf world, but it’s catching on, and for a good reason. 

Gear

It would be amiss if we didn’t talk about gear. Gear and gear failure are some of the things that lead to death even when the rider does everything right. 

It goes without saying that technology has aided this, but we still have ways to go before we reach the point of content. 

There is no such thing as the perfect gear. You might get the most expensive stuff and still fall for the “wrong time, wrong place” scenario. A decade ago, when Sion Milosky lost his life at the hands of the Mavericks, a research team with big wave surfer and 1987 Gotcha Pro winner Shane Dorian at the helm dove deep into improving the life vest. There were a million scenarios on the table. 

The process was long and tedious. Surfers are not the kind that moves to new gear easily; there really had to be a significant improvement in order for a good deal of them to consider a new product. The result? A CO2 inflatable wetsuit. Today, the CO2 wetsuit has become a staple at big wave events. Necessity will always push for invention. 

The Mindset

Look, a sharp mind and a good mindset won’t save you from impending death, but they will give you a better chance of making it through. 

In a lot of cases, surfers have lost their lives just because they hadn’t been in the right headspace when they set out to sea. 

Yes, we know that you have put a lot into your upcoming big wave event and that there is a lot at stake, but if you feel that something is off on a mental level, just take a rain check or at least consider pulling back from the event.  

In Closing…

Some of the big waves registered by the world surf league aren’t always the most dangerous ones. A lot of people have lost their lives because they had never ridden The Mavericks and didn’t even think what would happen if three consecutive waves locked them to the floor of the ocean. Prepare for the worst, and always know your limitations. 

Surfers have a much harder time navigating to the waves and moving out to shore than they do surfing them. It’s a good balance of knowledge, skill, and limitation. For those that we have lost, may they rest in peace.