Is Surfing Dangerous?

You might have heard of the dangers and hazards connected to surfing. Maybe you know someone or someone that knows someone that has had a surf-related injury. Maybe they're still fighting the injury to this day, and that has caused them to pause for a moment and pose the question: Is surfing a dangerous sport?

Well, that all depends on what your definition of dangerous is. It’s not the most risk-free sport out there, but it also isn’t something that’s life-threatening on a day-to-day basis. It all comes down to circumstance at the end of the day.

You could get injured just by running to catch a bus or lifting something heavy at home. It’s best not to think of these things in percentages and ratios because you can drive yourself silly with numbers at different locations, different timeframes, and different events and still not get any closer to the true picture.

In this article, we will discuss some of the most dangerous aspects of surfing. Be it as it may, we still strongly encourage you to keep surfing and not be chained to “what could be” scenarios.

If this were a “dangers while walking the sidewalk” article, we would have the falling piano from a balcony listed as a potential danger as well. So, even though these things are possible, it doesn’t mean that they are plausible or likely to happen to you. 

Taking on waves shouldn’t be done solely in relation to how dangerous they are. Just go as far as you feel comfortable going. Don’t take on the biggest and heaviest wave in the world on your first surf. 

No one is asking that from you, either. If you take it one step at a time, your confidence will grow in accordance with your skills, and you will be just fine. 

Without further ado, let’s see what made the list. 

Drowning

Obviously, the number one danger when spending a prolonged time in uneasy waters is the danger of drowning. You can be a magnificent surfer, but you have to be a great swimmer as well in order to prevent the current from climbing over you. 

If you’re not a good swimmer, you shouldn’t be surfing—it’s as cut and dried as that. You wouldn’t ask a trapeze artist to do their bit if they aren’t good at balance. Learn to crawl before you learn to walk, and you should be good even if push comes to shove. 

There are rare instances where surfers have drowned because they have been unable to separate themselves from the ocean’s floor. This occurs when the current keeps pushing you down, and you can’t swim to the surface. 

If this happens to you at some point, it's of utmost importance to keep your cool and try to stay as relaxed as possible. Don’t waste your energy fighting the wave—it’s a losing battle. Just stay put and do your best to wait it out while preserving your oxygen. 

Even if the current lasts a long time, someone is bound to see that you aren’t coming up for air and offer you some help. The worse thing that you can do is start pushing upwards. 

For one, you will exert yourself and will need more oxygen, and two, you are not stronger than the ocean. So, sit tight, and you should be able to get out of that quarry just fine. 

Another instance where a surfer might drown is if they lose consciousness and fall face down into the ocean. This usually happens when their own (or someone else’s) board swings unconventionally and ends up hitting them on the head. 

This is why you should always go out surfing with a friend, or even a couple of them. The more, the merrier.

Big Waves

It goes without saying that big waves can wreak havoc at a moment's notice. Besides being able to pick up more speed than the little waves, they also have more momentum and are heavier by nature. This means that you should gradually take on bigger waves. 

That being said, a bigger wave is not necessarily more dangerous than a small wave. A small wave can cause a ton of trouble, too, especially because it is often underestimated. However, big wave surfing requires a certain level of readiness in order to walk away unscathed. The stakes are higher, as you are consciously going at a lot more force. 

Enormous waves are almost impossible to duck dive through, either because they do pack a punch. In most cases, the surfer won’t be able to go under the waves because the pull is so very strong. 

When a big wave starts to break, it can break some bones as well. Have you seen the professional wrestling alliance? It’s almost the same thing. Surfers have been slammed hard off of the floor of the ocean and sat on with a significant weight on them after the fact. 

Again, a lot of it has to go with what lies on the bottom when you hit it. If there are rocks all over the reef, that might be game over. 

Nevertheless, it’s not something that can be calculated, so just go with the flow and let the chips fall where they may. 

Sharks

Well, we’ve all read the stories, right? We’ve seen a couple of scary movies and maybe even come face-to-face with the big suits. The fact of the matter is that you are going to the sharks. We have yet to hear of a shark coming at someone’s door and committing homicide. 

Be cautious of shark-infested waters—you are entering their territory and threatening their home and their life.  

That being said, humans kill a lot more sharks than sharks kill humans on an annual basis. The numbers are actually staggering. But, let’s not take it to the brink here—most of us are worried about being bitten by a shark, not eaten alive by it. 

The first thing you should know is that most sharks will only attack humans if they feel threatened. And even then, not all shark attacks result in deaths. 

Yes, we all have this image of bloodthirsty predators, but that’s not painting the full picture. Don’t be surprised if someday a shark passes you right by and goes about its business. We are not the center of the universe, no matter how hard we try to make that a point. 

Sea Life

While sharks might be the poster boys when it comes to sea dangers, they aren’t the only creatures that roam the ocean. The water is filled with life forms that are ready to take you on if you happen to threaten their existence. Everything from stings, bites, and hits is on the table. Be wary of jellyfish, stonefish, and marine animals that have venom to their sting. 

Most sea creatures are great at camouflaging in order to blend in with the environment, so they might be difficult to see. 

If you do happen to get stung by something, don’t be a tough guy and go on surfing. You need to check that sting before it causes some real damage. 

If you do not head to the hospital immediately, you might get severely sick, lose your consciousness, or even die. So, better be safe than sorry. 

Surfboard Parts

Although the surfboard leash is in place to keep your board close by when you fall off it, it can cause quite a bit of damage if it gets tangled at the wrong time. You want to keep it as far away from your neck as possible. Yes, it might be a bit difficult to navigate when you are being pulled at from all sides, but try to get a hand in there before it wraps itself around you so that you’ll be able to control it. 

Big wipeouts are known for wreaking all sorts of havoc. It’s not unconventional for the board to come right at you (or someone else) when you come down. Be alert and look out for the fins and where they are pointed at. They might back up straight into your face. 

The Crowd

When the surf is good, there will likely be no shortage of surfers diving in for the next big wave. Crowded surfs are the worst when the going gets good because everyone feels entitled to a place on the table. Some people might get aggressive if they feel that they aren’t being given their due space. 

Beginners and Disrespectful Surfers

Sometimes you might get in danger because someone else has all but forsaken their surroundings. There are two main types of surfers that usually end up in your line of movement. The first ones are the beginners, and they usually put both you and them in danger by not knowing any better. 

You might think that they should be forgiven because they are, in fact, beginners, but they can potentially cause just as much damage as someone jumping in on your trajectory on purpose. It’s not an ego thing at all; the only thing that concerns you and should concern you is how to navigate the situation and minimize the damage if it’s inevitable. 

So, beginners, you are not getting a free pass for losing your head in the crowd. If you don’t know what you are doing, where you are going, or where you are, just make a turn and stop. You might seriously injure both yourselves and other surfers. 

The second type of surfers that you should have in mind is the inconsiderate ones. Sadly, there are individuals that feel like the king of the hill and just want that adrenaline hit no matter where or how. 

Once again, in situations like this, you are a lot better off moving to a different spot. It has nothing to do with who got there first—you are being smart and protecting your body. You can deal with the inconsiderate surfer on land if you wish, but while you are on the waves, your safety is your main priority.  

Once you are on land, you can confront them by asking them if they are aware of basic surfing etiquette and the danger they’ve put you both in. You’ll know who you’re dealing with in a matter of seconds by asking that question. 

Hypothermia

Although when we think of surfing we tend to imagine palm trees, tanned bodies, and a fading warm sunset, the fact of the matter is that surfing is just as prevalent in cold water conditions.

This is why surfers invest a great deal in their wetsuit and their equipment. One of the real dangers in surfing cold waters is hypothermia. 

There are surfers that don’t mind the cold and can go on surfing no matter the temperature, but there is only so much that a body can take. After a while, you’ll drop your temperature and put yourself at risk of hypothermia. 

This can be very dangerous, so be sure to have good equipment and a thick wetsuit if you’re heading out to ice-cold waters.

Pollution

Unfortunately, we haven’t done our best to protect the ocean from ourselves and have caused a great deal of harm by polluting it. In today’s world, the waters that you are surfing can be infested with very dangerous and potentially life-threatening chemicals. 

There are all kinds of pesticides, sewage debris, oils, and waste all around, so try to scout out a location before you five head deep into the uncertain. The local quality of the tap water is a good indication of the cleanliness of the water. 

If you’re wondering if polluted waters can be a serious hazard to your health and well-being, the answer is that they can, but the chances are that you’re not going to drop dead anytime soon. 

All the bacteria from the waste can cause a plethora of different infections if they come in contact with your skin. It all depends on your immune system and chronic illnesses that you might carry along. 

It’s common sense to stay as far away as possible from debris and oil drains, but you also want to skip the surf for about 72 hours after a storm or a heavy rain day. This is the point when the soup gets stirred. 

Also, be mindful of cuts and open wounds when you are entering the water. If you cut yourself while you are in the water, don’t waste any time getting out of there and tend to the cut. It’s essentially a breeding hub for bacteria and can lead to a staph infection. 

The Ocean Floor

Yes, we know that you cannot be aware of this at all times because sometimes there is a rock that appears out of nowhere. 

However, you can be knowledgeable and mindful of the general terrain. Most popular surf sports have the reef all mapped out so that you pretty much know what you’re dealing with. 

It doesn’t matter if the conditions are great and the weather is excellent. Falling headfirst into a boulder is still falling headfirst into a boulder. 

There are surfers that resort to helmets for added protection when they are unsure of the reef or when they know that they will be facing rocky surfaces at the bottom of the ocean. 

The Sun

It might be the very last thing on your mind when you think of sea dangers, but the sun is just as dangerous as anything on this list. As someone who’s probably surfing at least three to four days per week, you are constantly exposed to the sun and its piercing ultraviolet rays, or UV rays.

A tanned body might look good in pictures, but the reality is that you might be causing yourself a great deal of harm by constantly exposing yourself to the sun. 

If you’re an avid surfer, you can’t do much about the exposure itself. However, you can take some precautions: simply never go to the beach without applying sunscreen. 

Just be mindful of the sunscreen that you are using; you don’t want to further pollute the ocean. 

A Few Words Before You Go…

As you can probably tell by now, answering the question ‘Is surfing dangerous?’ isn’t as simple as most seem to think. 

Yes, neither beginner surfers nor experienced surfers are exempt from shark attacks, inconsiderate surfers, ten-story waves, multiple wave hold-downs, marine life, rip currents, etc. However, one can always make the best of their surroundings and conditions if they prepare ahead of time and keep their head in the game.

More surfers than not will tell you that surfing isn’t an extreme sport. Most want to cruise the beaches, get to their surf spot, and have a fun session. Accidents rarely happen, but they do happen.

Regardless, the art of surfing is what you make it, and the danger levels have a lot to do with how you approach the surf rather than the circumstances. 

If you want to catch waves, you will have to take on some surfing risks. How far you’re willing to go is entirely up to you.