The Art of Falling: How Should a Surfer Wipe Out?

A surfing wipeout is simply falling from the board due to the force of the wave. It may happen all the time, but it does happen more frequently when you’re trying to take on bigger, better, and sometimes bitter challenges.

In that sense, it’s understandable that it sounds like a failure, albeit a temporary one, for aspiring surfers and laypeople alike. However, we don’t agree with that particular point of view, as we don’t believe that anything that helps you progress can or should be considered a failure. Even if it’s one, there are ways to turn that failure into something better. Legendary big wave surfer Laird Hamilton also attests to this idea: “Wiping out is an under-appreciated skill.”

In fact, if you aren’t getting wiped out, you’re either a miraculously good surfer, or you’re not really trying to improve. That being said, it’s also not a peaceful incident where you fall and just think: “Oh, okay, I’m getting better, right? Right?”. Especially when you’re riding a powerful and large surf on a shallow break, you might fall on razor-sharp reefs that might break your board as well as injure you.

Therefore, it’s important to avoid a bad wipeout. The best surfers out there are those who have mastered the art of it. Now, let’s see what consequences a bad wipeout has and what you should do to wipe out properly.

Unwanted Consequences of Surfing Wipeouts

We’re talking about surfing in shallow water and having underwater rocks beneath. If you or your surfboard hits those rocks, there’s quite the possibility of some damage. Just take a look at this video—flying surfboards, surfers caught inside rolling tubes, and bodies disappearing in fuming white foam—and you’ll get our point. Although that might give you the heebie-jeebies, we’ll also point out how you can avoid such unfortunate fates a bit later.

So, what’s most likely to happen when you experience a wipeout? Let’s find out in a countdown from bad to worst!

• Dings

You cannot avoid a ding during a wipeout since your board has probably declared its freedom, and a stray board is never a good sign. Moving bullet-like with the sheer force of the wave, it might end up hitting a sharp reef formation, other surfers, other boards, the ocean floor, or simply you, and suffer a couple of dings in the process. However, compared to the other possible consequences, that would be on the fortunate side.

• Broken Boards

A ding is something you can fix with a ding repair kit. A broken board, on the other hand, is money flying away from you. When you wipe out on the lip of a big wave or inside a thunderously rolling barrel, there’s a good chance that you’ll have your board broken, as the power inherent to such waves is unimaginably strong.

• Injuries

As we said, your board might hit you during a wipeout. Especially when you’re hit by its fins or nose, you might get cuts. If it’s broken, the point where it broke might hurt you even further. Also, when you hit the wave, it might show itself in the shape of bruises later.

• Losing Consciousness

Did you see the barrels in the video we shared above? When you’re caught in these barrels, you’ll be right out of air supply. Moreover, if you’re on shallow water, you might crash into the ocean floor or reefs beneath you in a fast-paced manner. Losing consciousness under such circumstances is quite a possibility.

• Death

Sorry to put it like this, but yes, as you might imagine after the last point we made, death is also a possibility. However, it’s the worst-case scenario (we surely don’t know how that might be a consolation, though), and it’s quite rare.

How Should a Surfer Wipe Out?

Whether you’re surfing the beginner-friendly waves of the Waikiki Beach or trying to tame nature by challenging Teahupo’o, wipeouts happen, and they can all carry serious consequences. However, a good and experienced surfer will know how to come out unscathed through one.

Do you want to be a good and experienced surfer? Well, check out the tips below.

Tip #1: Don’t Panic

This phrase is a cliché, alright, but it’s also the sole ancestor of every good piece of advice given in dangerous circumstances. Don’t panic. Keep calm. 

Remember, a wipeout will already put you in a situation where breathing will be difficult. When you panic, you decrease your chances of breathing properly and increase the possibility of one of its direst consequences: losing consciousness.

Instead, the moment you realize that you’re losing control, you just need to stay calm, alert, and take a deep breath. That way, you’ll be able to navigate the fall better.

Tip #2: Jump As Far Away As Possible From Your Board

When surfing, we need to listen to the wave and do what it tells us to do. When wiping out, that’s surely not the recommended course of action. After filling your lungs with a huge inhale, you need to take matters into your own hands and jump off your board.

Moreover, you need to make sure that you’re jumping as far away as possible from your board. As we repeatedly implied above, a stray board is the main cause of wipeout injuries. This way, you’ll minimize the risk of getting hit by your own board. On a similar note, under no circumstances should you jump in front of your board.

Tip #3: Mind the Shallow Waters

You might not be in a surf spot that has notoriously shallow waters, but you still need to jump as if you’re jumping into a shallow pool. As explained in our guide on how waves work, waves draw water from the bottom of the ocean and release it from their lips. This particular trait renders every wave shallow. So, no matter where you are, there’s the risk of crashing into reefs or the ocean floor.

Tip #4: Put Your Butt Into the Impact Zone and Protect Your Head

You might think that we don’t care about your butt or that we consider it expendable. We do care about it. Regardless, it’s the area that can absorb the force of the wave the most, and going butt first will minimize the risk of injuries on your more fragile body parts such as ankles, knees, and head.

You just need to meet the water as if you’re doing a cannonball jump. Meanwhile, you need to protect your head as well since you don't know where your surfboard or other surfers are.

Tip #5: Go Deeper in the Ocean

Yes, even if you get every tip above right, the moment you find yourself in the water might be too hectic for your liking. However, you can reduce that feeling of panic, anxiety, and helplessness by going deeper into the ocean.

Once you’re in, you’ll realize that it’s much more peaceful below. Of course, it’s true only when you don’t forget to draw a deep breath before your jump.

Tip #5: Resurface Slowly and Cautiously

Once all that rage has subsided, you can come out of the water, but you should be wary during your resurfacing. That’s primarily because you still don’t know the whereabouts of your surfboard. It might be anywhere and have a case against you. So, be careful to resurface away from it.

In addition to your board, there might be other surfers above you as well. Even though you’re desperate for that fresh air, hold your horses and observe your surroundings first.

Tip #6: Find Your Board

If the force of your wipeout didn’t break your leash, it’s great. In that case, as soon as you surface, you need to pull that leash and grab your board in order to prevent it from wandering further and causing injuries.

If it’s broken? Well, you can’t do much there other than be extra careful.

A Few Words Before You Go…

We believe that we’ve given you a thorough guide on how to survive wipeouts, but it shouldn’t mean that you can go out and surf any break. Never challenge yourself on waves that are superior to skills, and always be aware of your whereabouts. That way, you’ll minimize getting wiped out.

Do you want to take more preemptive action before paddling into the ocean? The following OMBE guides might be of help:

• How to Spot a Rip Current
• How to Read Surf Reports
• Facts About Ocean Waves

Always remember that safety must come first!